So forgive me for not searching for a thread that already adresses this, and I'm sure it exitsts.
I've seen several vids that show using only a seating die to perform both seating and crimping...I'm assuming a taper crimp to remove the flare. How's this working for you and how do adjust the seating die to properly remove the flare? I'm kinda stuck on using both the seating die and FCD in two separate operations. Although I saw that Lee is developing a new die to do this operation specifically, which means there must be some advantages to the current method.
Seating + crimping
Moderator: darwin
seat crimp
screw die in til it touches shell holder, then back it out 3 full turns. lightly finger tighten lock ring. If crimp desired, screw die in and test until proper crimp. You know how to work top bullet seat screw. Check length with calipers.
instructions on you 3 die set .
instructions on you 3 die set .
The skinning of cats varies.
On past occasions with taper crimps I have set the seating die to both just barely remove the bell and also seat the boolit. With lead boolits one has to be very cautious to not deform the boolit by seating it with the case mashed against with the crimp function. The die is moving the boolit while the die is crimping. Thus the caveat to only just barely remove the bell and not pinch the boolit. Then I apply and desired real crimp in the next stage.
To set the seating/crimping die to seat and crimp, take your sized, but not belled case and put it in the seating stage. The die body should be turned well out beyond where it will contact the case when the ram is closed and the seating adjustment likewise set way out from what will be the final setting. So, with ram closed, turn the die body down until the taper crimp just barely makes contact with the case by feel. Lock the die body there or even back it out a tiny bit before locking. Now go back and bell that case, then seat the boolit depth in the usual manner to get desired COL. This uncharged dumby round can be used in the future to set or check the dies.
If roll crimping onto a boolit with a crimp groove, then careful adjusting can yield good results with seating and crimping together because although the boolit is moving as the crimp is applied, the crimp does not contact or mash into the lead because the lead is relieved at that area. Even with a roll crimp, apply a tight crimp that goes beyond just barely contacting the bottom of the crimp groove and the boolit will be deformed.
prs
On past occasions with taper crimps I have set the seating die to both just barely remove the bell and also seat the boolit. With lead boolits one has to be very cautious to not deform the boolit by seating it with the case mashed against with the crimp function. The die is moving the boolit while the die is crimping. Thus the caveat to only just barely remove the bell and not pinch the boolit. Then I apply and desired real crimp in the next stage.
To set the seating/crimping die to seat and crimp, take your sized, but not belled case and put it in the seating stage. The die body should be turned well out beyond where it will contact the case when the ram is closed and the seating adjustment likewise set way out from what will be the final setting. So, with ram closed, turn the die body down until the taper crimp just barely makes contact with the case by feel. Lock the die body there or even back it out a tiny bit before locking. Now go back and bell that case, then seat the boolit depth in the usual manner to get desired COL. This uncharged dumby round can be used in the future to set or check the dies.
If roll crimping onto a boolit with a crimp groove, then careful adjusting can yield good results with seating and crimping together because although the boolit is moving as the crimp is applied, the crimp does not contact or mash into the lead because the lead is relieved at that area. Even with a roll crimp, apply a tight crimp that goes beyond just barely contacting the bottom of the crimp groove and the boolit will be deformed.
prs
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The only sarge
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:09 am
I have for many years and many rounds set my seating die as such.....
I put a empty case in the shell holder. I raise the ram all the way up with the empty case. I screw my bullet seating die down until it stops on the top of the empty case. I then take the case out and screw the die in one half turn more. I do this on all my pistol rounds and it crimps perfect every time.
Of course from there you can set your bullet seating depth with your top adjustment screw.
I put a empty case in the shell holder. I raise the ram all the way up with the empty case. I screw my bullet seating die down until it stops on the top of the empty case. I then take the case out and screw the die in one half turn more. I do this on all my pistol rounds and it crimps perfect every time.
Of course from there you can set your bullet seating depth with your top adjustment screw.
Got it. Guess I was just confused over why Lee would recommend doing bullet seating and crimping with FCD in separate steps, and apparently many purists do it this way. Also when I saw that Lee is developing a new combination seating/crimping die it made me wonder why their current one didn't work that way.
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magic mike
- Posts: 689
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:33 am
- Location: TX
Ok, so it looks like Magic Mike hit on the reason behind my initial query - how to free up a spot for a powder cop.
So, assuming you put the seater/crimp die in station 5, that leaves station 4 open for a powder cop. Unfortunately, that means you eliminate any kind of bullet feeding operation and have to manually place the bullet. If you're manually placing the bullet, then it's antural and automatic to give the powder charge a visual check at the same time...eliminating the need for a powder cop. So what's the point?...unless I totally missed something.
So, assuming you put the seater/crimp die in station 5, that leaves station 4 open for a powder cop. Unfortunately, that means you eliminate any kind of bullet feeding operation and have to manually place the bullet. If you're manually placing the bullet, then it's antural and automatic to give the powder charge a visual check at the same time...eliminating the need for a powder cop. So what's the point?...unless I totally missed something.
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magic mike
- Posts: 689
- Joined: Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:33 am
- Location: TX
For seating and crimping in the same step using the seater die, follow the instructions that came with the die set... the info you've received is CLOSE
but it comes from guys that already know how to do it and they kinda left out a step or two....with a sized, primed, charged case..(unless you're making a "dummy" round) unscrew the bullet seater plug all the way out, run the case up into the press, screw the die down until it contacts the case mouth, then back off 1or two turns, lower ram, place a bullet into the case and run it back up into the press, lower seater plug (in increments) until bullet seating depth is acquired, lower ram, back seater plug back out, raise ram, screw die in until it touches case mouth, lower the ram and adjust die lower (about 1/2 turn is usually good, but adjust to your needs) until desired crimp is acquired, lock die in place, lower seater plug until it contacts the already properly seated bullet. Done. It's faster and easier to do than to type it..
but it comes from guys that already know how to do it and they kinda left out a step or two....with a sized, primed, charged case..(unless you're making a "dummy" round) unscrew the bullet seater plug all the way out, run the case up into the press, screw the die down until it contacts the case mouth, then back off 1or two turns, lower ram, place a bullet into the case and run it back up into the press, lower seater plug (in increments) until bullet seating depth is acquired, lower ram, back seater plug back out, raise ram, screw die in until it touches case mouth, lower the ram and adjust die lower (about 1/2 turn is usually good, but adjust to your needs) until desired crimp is acquired, lock die in place, lower seater plug until it contacts the already properly seated bullet. Done. It's faster and easier to do than to type it..
6 hole
need that six hole with a bullet feed. The dillon crimp die is world away from seat crimp die. I have FCD too from lee. Dillon was lot better with micrometer, like linda lovelace. If the dillon would seat too, but thats not kool. Some say they cant shoot without FCD or dillon crimp. I just ordered a dillon crimp today for 9mm. Hunting for lyman #12 shell holder. I can do expander dies on laithe. Shame the lee bullet feed dont work or i cant get it to..
loading for sig938 & xds45
loading for sig938 & xds45
I've found the additional crimp die is a waste of money. Loaded for years on a Pro-1000 and had no problems. Using the Loadmaster, I bought one for the .45ACP. Again, waste of money. The bullet seating/crimp die does just fine on it's own.
The Powder Cop is a great idea. Loading .30 Carbine with 5.5 gr of Unique for a revolver is a pain. Small case diameter coupled with a light charge means pulling each one off the press and looking in the case to make sure there's powder. I think bullet seating is moving to station 5 and a Powder Cop will be installed. Too bad it costs as much as a whole set of Lee dies. Lee could probably do this for ten or fifteen bucks.
The Powder Cop is a great idea. Loading .30 Carbine with 5.5 gr of Unique for a revolver is a pain. Small case diameter coupled with a light charge means pulling each one off the press and looking in the case to make sure there's powder. I think bullet seating is moving to station 5 and a Powder Cop will be installed. Too bad it costs as much as a whole set of Lee dies. Lee could probably do this for ten or fifteen bucks.
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