A couple of small details

Questions and discussions and troubleshooting Lee Load Master presses

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magic mike
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A couple of small details

Postby magic mike » Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:11 pm

Hi All,

I received a few new primer pins from Titan the other day and as I was grinding the tips I thought it might be interesting to show the difference between the stock pin and a ground one in regard to how much more support area is gained after grinding.

Also shown is a little trick I use to tighten up the ejector plate so that it doesn't move_________at all. I know that others have done different things to help stop its movement but this method is about as simple as it gets and it only takes about two minutes to do it with a small center punch and your favorite hammer.

Just passin' it along.

mike

PS. If you do grind the tops of your pins you will need to find some way of raising them back up to a flush position with the floor of the primer trough. If you don't do this, you will suffer from tipped primers.

[img][img]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd363/9mm_mike/Primerpinsandejectorplate002_zpsd3f2b6f6.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd363/9mm_mike/Primerpinsandejectorplate006_zps10a770d2.jpg[/img][/img]
Last edited by magic mike on Thu Aug 21, 2014 11:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

websterz
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Postby websterz » Mon Aug 18, 2014 3:12 pm

Nice ejector plate mod! Going to steal that one for both my LLM's.

Sparky45
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Postby Sparky45 » Mon Aug 18, 2014 3:48 pm

Thanks Mike, I'm going out and punch mine now.

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TankerMatt
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Postby TankerMatt » Sat Aug 23, 2014 5:19 pm

Mike can you explain the ejector mod? I dont get it. I do how ever grind my pins, do you have a solution for powder dropping into the hole that holds the set screw thus not allowing you to insert the allen key... I tired torching it but it got grease on the powder during operation and not allowing it to burn.
I need to get some of those new turrets off of you soon!!! have you ever thought of cnc making the lever? I have the inline fab handle on mine and it snapped the lever this week loading the tight 357 sig!? (lee sent me a new one)

magic mike
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Postby magic mike » Sat Aug 23, 2014 6:10 pm

The center punch marks swell the edge of the metal inward in effect making the square hole smaller. The reason I have them in the corner is to cause the plate to rotate ccw a tad to place the end of the tang on the ejector plate as close as I could get it to the edge of the holes in the shellplate. The closer it fits, the less backward movement of the shellplate.

I would think that the case retainer keeps the hole covered 99% of the time so powder can't get into it. I would suggest that a shot of compressed air would do the trick. If you don't have a compressor then one of the cans of air used for dusting computers would work also. If you are loosing powder, you might want to think about lapping your powder discs. They are not flat and lapping them really helps to stop leakage.

I am afraid a cnc handle would cost more than the whole press. Could look real trick though. Kinda like mag wheels for your press!

mike

Sparky45
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Postby Sparky45 » Sat Aug 23, 2014 6:13 pm

If I might take a shot at answering; pinging around the ejector as shown will tighten the piece to the center hub on the Carrier, at least that's what it did for mine.

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THRASH
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Postby THRASH » Sat Aug 23, 2014 10:02 pm

Gracious Mr. Mike, I did them both, primers now aren't dented and the ejector is solid as a rock. How about engineering us some better case-feeder system mods, then on to the bullet feeder. Thankee mucho!

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TankerMatt
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Postby TankerMatt » Sat Aug 23, 2014 10:49 pm

I'm going to post a how to video to make case sliders per caliber so you won't ever have case feed problems.

zdr
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Postby zdr » Sat Aug 23, 2014 11:58 pm

I would think that the case retainer keeps the hole covered 99% of the time so powder can't get into it. I would suggest that a shot of compressed air would do the trick. If you don't have a compressor then one of the cans of air used for dusting computers would work also. If you are loosing powder, you might want to think about lapping your powder discs. They are not flat and lapping them really helps to stop leakage.
mike[/quote]

Hi Mike, would you mind saying more about lapping the powder discs?
Thanks
Zane

magic mike
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Postby magic mike » Sun Aug 24, 2014 11:10 am

No problem zdr. The powder discs are injection molded and as they cool they tend to sink in the center several thousandths. If you lap that surface to flatten it, the seal between the disc and the silicon wiper in the hopper is greatly improved and results in less leakage. I use a 12" square granite tile and some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper with a little soapy water to lap the discs. Measure the thickness of all your discs in several locations around their circumference and record the results. Take the thinnest one and using a figure 8 motion lap it until you are satisfied it is dead flat. Be sure and continually rotate the disc as you lap it so it cuts as evenly as possible. Now lap the remaining discs until they are the same thickness as the first one. When you are satisfied they are flat, finish them with a few strokes on some 1000/1500. Now insert one of the discs in the base of the measure and install the hopper. Operate the measure and observe the fit between the silicon wiper and the disk. It should have a slight interference fit. If it does not, lap the legs of the hopper as required to lower it and bring the wiper into contact with the disc. When lapping the legs, be sure to measure their length and keep them even as you proceed. You might want to very lightly break the sharp edges around the holes in the disc so they don't trip on the seal.

That's about it.

mike[/u]

zdr
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Joined: Fri Feb 07, 2014 9:15 pm

Postby zdr » Sun Aug 24, 2014 3:26 pm

Thank you Mike!



magic mike wrote:No problem zdr. The powder discs are injection molded and as they cool they tend to sink in the center several thousandths. If you lap that surface to flatten it, the seal between the disc and the silicon wiper in the hopper is greatly improved and results in less leakage. I use a 12" square granite tile and some 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper with a little soapy water to lap the discs. Measure the thickness of all your discs in several locations around their circumference and record the results. Take the thinnest one and using a figure 8 motion lap it until you are satisfied it is dead flat. Be sure and continually rotate the disc as you lap it so it cuts as evenly as possible. Now lap the remaining discs until they are the same thickness as the first one. When you are satisfied they are flat, finish them with a few strokes on some 1000/1500. Now insert one of the discs in the base of the measure and install the hopper. Operate the measure and observe the fit between the silicon wiper and the disk. It should have a slight interference fit. If it does not, lap the legs of the hopper as required to lower it and bring the wiper into contact with the disc. When lapping the legs, be sure to measure their length and keep them even as you proceed. You might want to very lightly break the sharp edges around the holes in the disc so they don't trip on the seal.

That's about it.

mike[/u]

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TankerMatt
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Postby TankerMatt » Sun Aug 24, 2014 3:48 pm

I'll have to try that on my disks! I did the ejector mod today and it works get thanks again to mike!


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